The Burry Estuary

The northern coast of the Gower Peninsula is dominated by the flatlands of the Burry
Estuary - an area that possesses breath-taking scenery and a rugged, anachronistic
charm that, more than any other part of Gower, has remained little changed over the
centuries.


Several channels intersect this vast plane of marshland in a ragged criss-cross fashion,
and the swathes of grass, which are the only source of bright colour marking the scene,
are splintered with a maze of curiously shaped puddles that have been naturally carved
upon the landscape. Across this vista numerous ponies graze, descendant vestiges of a
pre-mechanised cockling industry. Their ancestors were freed to roam this land after
their need to draw the cockle carts across from the shellfish beds to the processing
factories in the nearby villages became obsolete, their need replaced by that of the
ubiquitous Landrover.

The smell of salt lies heavy in the air, kindling the senses, its spray made all the more
evocative on occasions when the estuary surrenders its panorama to a misty oblivion
(which can occur quite frequently during winter months). These times, when the whole
estuary can acquire a certain ethereal and timeless quality, provides an ideal opportunity
to explore the various ruined armed forces buildings which scatter the area here. During
World War II, the Burry Estuary was used as a shelling practice range and the occasional
unexploded bomb can occasionally still be discovered.

In previous centuries, before the dykes which scar the flatness of the marshland became
silted to a degree where they could no longer support the deep hulls of ocean-faring
trading ships, the area was the scene of busy porting activity. The vessels brought to the
villages skirting the estuary a colourful manner of life and a prosperity that allowed many
communities that might otherwise have failed to actively flourish. To look at the estuary
now it is difficult to imagine the bustling excitement of port life with the picturesque sight
of great white galleon sails billowing grandly in the wind and the melting pot of accents,
stories and trades from around the world. To the archeologist or historian there are still
the remnants of the times to be discovered and explored to remind them of the areas
once illustrious lifestyle but much of these have now dissolved discretely into the
landscape and all lie rather unobtrusive to the casual regard of the country walker.
Dividing the estuary, at Crofty , is the spit of headland known as Salthouse Point.
Constructed by the armed forces during World War II, the point now supports a range of
rocky shore life including the edible periwinkle and numerous species of crab. With the
shifting channels here ensuring a rich supply of food to support them, they in turn sustain
a whole host of resident and visiting sea birds.

A feature of the eastern half of this estuary, spreading from Penclawdd down to
Gowerton, is Spartina grass. This coarse grass did not exist here in the 1940's and the
former expanse of golden sand on which it first took root, has now been buried beneath a
thick layer of ever deepening mud that has been trapped amongst these rampaging
thickets.

At high tide , the area is best viewed from the heights of Weobley Castle during the day,
whilst late evening sea level views from either Llanmorlais or Penclawdd can be highly
spectacular as the sun sets across its watery realms, bathing the coastline in a rich and
romantic amber light.

At low tide, the easiest (and perhaps more rewarding) access to the marshland can be
gained from the quiet lane that flanks the area between Llanmorlais and Llanrhidian .
For visitors interested in the natural wildlife of the area, a visit to the National Wetlands
Centre of Wales, situated across the peninsula at Penclacwydd (near Llanelli), provides a
rich opportunity to study the teeming bird population at close hand. The centre also
holds activities to entertain and educate both young and old alike.